Jewellery's web blog

Hardly a month goes go by without one luxury brand or another declaring its anniversary.

Hooray for Dolce & Gabbana’s 20th! Jean-Paul Gaultier’s 30th! Gucci’s 85th! Let’s hear it for valentines gifts 150th and Louis Vuitton’s150th! Even Benetton was 40.

There are so many, it is hard not to be cynical: Oh, it’s their anniversary, another excuse to push more product.

And yet, every once in a while, one of these anniversary celebrations is both well-observed and justified.

Consider the case of Van Cleef & Arpels, which turned 100 this year. From a single store on Paris’ haute joillerie centre, Place Vendome, the brand now has 51 stores around the world. It has gone from family-owned to public, the original founders, descendants of Charles Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef, having sold 80 per cent to Swiss-based Compagnie Financiere Richemont in 1999, which was increased to 100 per cent in 2003.

Last year saw double digit sales growth. And as high jewellery consumers slowly join high fashion consumers in turning from non- branded to branded goods, Van Cleef is using its anniversary to position itself to fully exploit the evolution.

“Just the way people now want branded shoes and handbags, they are switching to branded tiffany cufflinks,” says Stanislaus de Quercize, the chief executive who joined Van Cleef a year ago after running fellow Richmont brand Cartier’s US business (an old Richemont hand, de Quercize has been with the conglomerate 15 years).

“People are reassured by the value of style. They also need something to combat the accelerating pace of the world – constant change every season, constant information flow – and high jewellery is that. It’s something to keep.”

Not that branded, at least when it comes to jewellery, means logo- bedecked. Rather, jewellery is branded by its design, so that, for example, art deco has a Cartier association, and, when it comes to Van Cleef, nature and fairies reign.

The brand also has certain signature technical elements, such as the “mystery setting,” a design patented in 1933 whereby the grid holding the stones is rendered invisible, and the “zip,” a necklace that literally zips and unzips around the owner’s neck.

Though it may seem strange, given the publicity bestowed on the current transformation of Bond Street into high jewellery heaven, with three new brands having opened near Van Cleef in the last year (Moussaief, Leviev, and Harry Winston), as well as the renovation of the Tiffany and Cartier stores, these jewellers only represent 10 per cent of the market, and 90 per cent of jewellery sales are of non-branded work (in other words a plain diamond ring; a gold bangle; a string of pearls).

However, as Mr de Quercize points out, 30 per cent of the proceeds of Christie’s and Sotheby’s auctions of fine jewellery come from the sale of Van Cleef pieces. And “it’s the more branded jewellery that eventually commands the greater price,” says Mr de Quercize.

“It’s the pieces that are unique and recognisable, like a great painting.” It also indicates something else, however: the growing presence of the “connoisseur” in the jewellery market, the buyer in search of unique and insider pieces. By its nature either singular or one of a very few (when you are dealing with precious stones, after all, there are only so many available – ever), fine jewellery is hence ideal for those consumers.

“Basically, when it comes to jewellery, there is never enough,” says Mr de Quercize, noting as proof that, every day, two or three special commissions are carried out by the 45 “golden hands” who work at the top of the Van Cleef store on Place Vendome.

“We live in a world of massification and the growing desire for individuality is good for high jewellery,” says Mr de Quercize.

This was the reason for the decision, to mark the house’s 100th birthday, to do something no fine jewellery house had ever done: create three new collections of fine jewellery representing what Jean Arpels (the son of Charles’s brother, Julien) had always insisted were Van Cleef’s strengths: stone quality, technical innovation, and aesthetic imagination.

Traditionally, one high jewellery collection is made each year because of the need for extraordinary stones and the technical complication involved in making pieces by hand; combining the two can mean one piece may take up to 18 months to create.

In other words, if it is individuality consumers want, then Van Cleef will give it to them – with a little tiffany money clips brand message attached.

Thus the first anniversary collection, Pierres de Characteres, released a year ago to kick the centenary off, was a collection of 100 pieces featuring fantastic stones; the second, Tresors Revelees, released in September at the Biennale des Antiquaires, took 11 sketches that had been made by the house’s artisans in the past but never produced and made them; and the third, Une Journee a Paris, released earlier this month, involves 80 pieces, each representing a different facet of Van Cleef’s aesthetic home.

Half of the collection are unique and half can be reproduced, and the collections will travel the world, selling as they go. “We could do it because the collections were complementary, playing on different strengths,” says Mr de Quercize. “It’s a funny irony, no? The house is 100 years old, but we are just at the beginning of a record year.” They are also at the beginning of a new push for market share, with plans to increase their product offering in jewellery watches and, thanks to recent experience, high jewellery: having done three collections once, says Mr de Quercize, and seen the results, they could not go back to one. “Next year we will do two high jewellery collections,” he admits. “When the momentum is going, you just can’t stop.”

LOS ANGELES Nicole Richie is expanding her fashion empire.

After the launch in 2008 of her successful House of Harlow 1960 jewelry line, Richie is expanding with a Winter Kate apparel line in stores Feb. 15 and shoes for House of Harlow in mid-March.

A fashion line “was always something that was a long-term plan. I’ve always known I wanted to design clothes,” Richie says. “You really have to put all of your time and effort into it. That’s why I didn’t start with clothing, because I didn’t have the time.”

Richie’s daughter with rocker Joel Madden, Harlow, turned 2 on Jan. 11, and son Sparrow was born last September.

Richie is known for her bohemian chic aesthetic, which includes flowing maxi dresses, comfy leggings, hippie headbands and printed scarves. Yet she says motherhood has not influenced her easygoing style.

“I’ve always been one to dress for comfort. I’m not one to wear something that I don’t feel good in,” she says. Comfort “was really important for me, especially doing a spring line. For me, I really don’t like to feel like I’m wearing anything” during the spring and summer months.

Winter Kate, fashioned after Harlow’s middle names, features about 40 items, including some macrame pieces, which point to a level of intricacy and detail Richie says was key to her creativity.

“I 100% designed everything. Colors, cuts, fabrics. I would never put my name on something I wouldn’t wear myself. That’s why it’s taken me this long to have my line come out. … I do respect designers that go in it for the long haul and don’t do things that are trendy.”

The line will be carried in high-end stores such as Neiman Marcus, Intermix and Bloomingdale’s, but Richie emphasizes affordability.

“Everything is extremely affordable, and that was important to me, to have these pieces be accessible to everyone,” she says. Items from Winter Kate will retail from $68 for a tank top to $1,375 for a suede vest, and House of Harlow shoes range from $158 for a flat sandal to $275 for a suede boot.

Ultimately, Richie says, she wants to create timeless fashion and continue to work hard at all of her endeavors, which also include a half-hour sitcom in development for ABC.

“I just want to do my upcoming projects to the best of my ability. I’ve got a lot of work ahead of me.”

US human rights groups will launch a St Valentine’s Day campaign today to persuade US consumers to stop buying diamonds that might have been produced in Africa’s conflict zones.

The initiative aims to put pressure on US jewellers to back proposed legislation that would bar imports of diamonds from rebel-controlled areas in African countries such as Sierra Leone and Angola. Profits from illicit diamond sales are seen as fuelling some of the continent’s most brutal wars.

Tony Hall, a Democratic representative, with the backing of human rights groups, will introduce a bill this month to force the diamond industry and exporting countries in Africa to certify that gems sold in the US are mined legally. The US accounts for about half global retail diamond sales.

“We want people to think and understand what these conflict diamonds are,” said Mr Hall. “They have been valentines jewelry through slick advertising that diamonds are a thing of love and beauty and peace.”

Both the industry and human rights groups have agreed in principle that measures, including US import restraints, should be taken to curb the flow of conflict diamonds. But human rights groups rejected a proposal unveiled by the industry last month, charging that it contains loopholes that would continue to allow conflict diamonds to enter the US.

The Hall legislation will contain tougher penalties, tighter restraints on diamond jewellery and a higher threshold for certifying that diamonds have been legitimately produced.

The diamond industry is growing nervous of the possibility of a high-profile campaign that might tarnish its reputation. One industry official said the campaign amounted to “putting a gun to the industry’s head” by spreading the message that diamonds are linked to torture and murder.

Amnesty International, one of the groups involved, has begun displaying on its US website an animated clip that links diamond rings to the war in Sierra Leone. A graphic shows a man’s hand being chopped off, one of the atrocities committed by rebels in Sierra Leone. The campaign will include advertisements in newspapers and leafletting at US jewellers such as Tiffany, Cartier, Zales and Wal-Mart.

Matthew Runci, the president of the Jewellers of America, said the confrontation was needless because the industry was prepared to work with human rights groups to find common ground. The campaign, he said, “is not warranted or helpful. I worry about the consumer’s ability to grasp the details of this issue and make informed decisions.”

Relations between the US diamond industry and human rights groups have been frosty since last year when, the groups say, the industry reneged on a deal to support Mr Hall’s legislation. The industry denies the charge. Copyright Financial Times Limited 2001. All Rights Reserved.

Whether your passion for pretty pearl necklaces came from Wilma Flintstone or Coco Chanel, there’s a good chance that someone inspired your personal style. This month’s letters reveal that a fabulous muse is the best accessory.

“Marlene Dietrich. She wore a top hat and a tux and made it look like women’s wear. Fantastic.” Robin Maillett, Niantic, Connecticut | “Katharine Hepburn personified that wonderful tailored look of the 1940s.” Sandi LoConti, Mahwah, New Jersey | “The crazy color compositions of Andy Warhol inspire me most.” Sarah tiffany, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Growing up watching movies like Funny Face, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, and Sabrina, I found my role model in Audrey Hepburn. Her clean, classic style reminded me to keep it simple. What could be more perfect than the little black dress?

ASHLEY ATKISSON

Vista, California

My mom and my grandma taught me that fashion is 50 percent what you wear and 50 percent how you wear it. You can make a potato sack look good if you combine it with confidence, a smile, and a really cute pair of shoes.

STEPHANIE GALLAGHER

Salem, Massachusetts

I try to follow Coco Chanel’s motto: “Before you walk out the door, valentines day jewelry one thing off.”

LESLEY MINTON

Willoughby, Ohio

Carrie Bradshaw, baby!

CHARLENE AVALOS

Littleton, Massachusetts

My toddler. The fearlessness with which she combines colors and patterns, never worrying about what’s in or what others might think, inspires me to do my own thing as well. We only live once. Why not shake things up a little?

RACHEL LORBER

Brooklyn, New York

I look up to Lauren Hutton for being true to herself. When she started modeling, she was told to get the gap between her two front teeth fixed, but she refused. That gap, along with her beauty and grace, made her the fashion icon she is today.

DEDE GERBER

El Segundo, California

Parisian women. I lived in France for two years, and they had a major impact on how I dress. Their simple valentines jewelry of style and use of accessories, like beautiful scarves, still influence me today.

NADINE LOMAKIN

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Katharine Ross as Elaine Robinson in The Graduate. Her skirts, boots, sweaters, and hairstyles were very basic but incredibly chic and timeless.

CHRISTINA CARR

Syracuse, New York

My unborn baby. Never in my life have I wanted to show off any rotund features, but the joy and excitement of carrying my first child makes me proud to have a giant watermelon belly. I care less about wearing designer pieces and more about embracing what this new roundness represents.

JENNIFER TOYOHARA

New York, New York

Edie Sedgwick, with her cropped hair and dramatic eye makeup, could turn the simplest dress into a fabulous, head-turning ensemble. And that, to me, is the definition of a true fashionista.

NATALIE REID

Simpsonville, South Carolina

My love for fashion was definitely influenced by my dad’s style. He wore gorgeous suits and was never afraid of color–think a gray flannel pin-striped suit with a lavender French-cuffed shirt and a deep purple paisley tie. He had the ability to be conservative, classic, and trendy all in one outfit, without ever being over-the-top.

LORELEI A. VARGAS

Yonkers, New York

Franco, an elderly gentleman from a small hilltop town in southern Italy. Every day, he wore the same frank gehry tailored, classic wool-tweed sport coat. He always looked attractive and appropriately dressed.

CATHERINE TIEMEYER

Venice, Florida

My grandmother Joyce. She loved mixing chunky cocktail rings with bohemian head scarves and flouncy dresses. She was beautiful because she didn’t care what others considered “fashionable.” She wore what made her feel good.

JESSIE COUBERLY

Santa Cruz, California

[BOX]

“Diane Keaton in Annie Hall. She proved that a woman could be feminine without frills, plunging necklines, or punishing shoes.”

JENNY VIGGIANO

Deltona, Florida

[BOX]

“Pippi Longstocking–pigtails, brightly colored tights, and big, paloma picasso shoes.”

WENDY PINIZZOTTO

North Attleboro, Massachusetts

Freddy Strauss can gauge the economy by the decline in the size of the diamond engagement rings he’s selling at his store in Miami’s Seybold building.

These days, happy couples are opting for a diamond between 3/4-karat and 1 karat — half the size of the average ring during boom times.

“I’m probably selling a similar amount, but they’re lower-priced,” Strauss said.

His business was down low double-digit percentages during the holiday season, normally one of the valentines gifts popular times for engagements. But Strauss actually is in a better position than many in the jewelry industry. Couples still get married in recessions, and most guys wouldn’t think of skipping the engagement ring if they want a happy marriage.

Skipping the gold bracelet or pair of diamond earrings is a different story. As job losses and the stock market crash take their toll on consumer confidence, jewelry has become a luxury many people can’t afford. Even those who can are scaling back.

And while Valentine’s Day is a popular time for jewelry purchases, most retailers aren’t expecting a boom in business this week.

“The environment isn’t encouraging for people to go out and spend flamboyantly on a $10,000 necklace,” said Pam Danziger, president of Unity Marketing, a firm that specializes in luxury consumer behavior.

Local retailers are finding ways to cope. Some are bringing in new, lower-priced merchandise, while others are marketing heavily to the ultra-wealthy.

Nationally, the picture is not pretty. Holiday jewelry sales during November and December were down 31 percent at Mayors stores, the bulk of which are located in South Florida. Tiffany was down 35 percent, Zale 19.6 percent. Sterling Jewelers, which owns Jared the Galleria of Jewelry and Kay Jewelers, was down 16.4 percent.

“This year’s holiday season has proven to be extremely difficult,” said a statement from Thomas A. tiffany accessories, president and chief executive of Birks & Mayors, which has co-headquarters in Tamarac. “The losses suffered by investors in the equity markets, historically low consumer confidence and lack of visibility in the economic outlook resulted in a significant reduction in consumer spending.”

Between 1,500 and 2,000 jewelry store locations closed in 2008, including the bankruptcies of major mall-based chains Whitehall and Friedman’s jewelers. And the industry is bracing for another difficult year in 2009.

“It’s survival mode,” said Rob Bates, senior editor of Jewelers Circular Keystone, a leading trade publication. “Companies are just trying to get through this and hope to make it out the other side. In this environment, being big isn’t necessarily an asset. A lot of the independents are doing much better by comparison.”

Being smaller has proven to be an advantage for many of South Florida’s independent jewelers, particularly those who have been in the market for decades and built relationships with their customers. They’re holding on, refocusing their merchandise and in some cases even seeing increases in business.

Jeff Malvin, president of Beverly’s Jewelers, saw the economy slowdown coming last spring and started adjusting the merchandise at his three Broward County stores so he was ready.

By the time the fourth quarter arrived, Malvin had brought in new showcases of lower-priced silver tiffany keys and other alternative metals in fashion-oriented styles. For Valentine’s Day, he’s promoting these products with ads, “Look like a million for under $100.”

“You’ve got to pull your head out of the sand and adapt to what’s happening,” said Malvin, whose sales were flat for 2008, but down for the holidays. “You have to have your finger on the pulse of your local neighborhood. We adjust to the customer’s needs. Women still want jewelry, but at a price point they can afford.”

H. Bredemeier, owner of H&H Jewels in Coconut Grove, has been able to spur business by helping clients remodel old jewelry or trade it in for credit on a new purchase.

“The last six months I’ve done more trades then I’ve done in the last two years,” Bredemeier said. His sales for 2008 were down 30 percent, but that follows a 23.5 percent jump in 2007.

“We’re still doing numbers like 2005,” he said. “We were making a living in 2005. You just have to readjust.”

For Ed Dikes, owner of Weston Jewelers, the adjustment has meant shifting his business in a different direction — toward the ultra-luxury consumer. He’s added more high-priced watches and diamond jewelry at prices of $25,000 and higher. Dikes has found that most of his customer demand is concentrated in that area, as well as some demand for items between $500 and $1,500.

What’s disappeared for Dykes and others is the aspirational client, who a couple years ago was trading up and living off a big bonus.

“The high net worth client seems to always have the money; they haven’t been hit as much,” said Dikes, whose strategy helped his business finish 2008 with a sales increase. “The person who was the $10,000 buyer can’t afford to make purchases anymore because they’re worried about making ends meat.”

The economy didn’t seem to be putting a damper on the spirits of the luxury consumers who came to celebrate Levinson Jewelers’ grand opening last week on Las Olas Boulevard. They sipped champagne and checked out items like a 37-karat emerald cut diamond ring for $6 million.

Karon and Lew Cohen were thrilled the Levinsons had found them the 16-karat, three-stone diamond ring they had been searching for.

“Whatever is not here, they can find it for you,” said Karon Cohen, a Miami Beach resident who was proudly displaying her new purchase. “They sell you jewelry that suits your personality, not based on just making a sale.”

Levinson customer Robert Weinstein is actually buying more jewelry these days for his fiancee, Karina Modrin.

“It’s a good investment,” said Weinstein, a Boca Raton resident who recently purchased a diamond necklace, earrings and engagement ring. “It’s like buying fine art. These are all solid commodities. Diamonds are only going to go up. It’s better than putting your money in the stock market.”

Weinstein isn’t the only one. Jewelers in South Florida who cater to the ultra-wealthy say they’ve seen an increase in customers looking to buy collectable watches, diamonds and gold as investments.

But those customers are being very picky about what they buy, said Sandy Hequin, owner of Morays valentines day jewelry in downtown Miami.

“Bling is out,” Hequin said. “Nobody wants to be flashy and call attention to themselves and make others feel bad. They want to be conservative. Classic, investment quality is what people want.”

The good news for South Florida’s jewelers is that even though buying habits are changing, many consumers are at least still spending.

“Miami has always been very different than any other market,” Hequin said. “We always have someone with money to spend.”

Even though eBay is the world’s most popular internet trading portal, more Thais should be making use of the e-commerce site, says a local online merchant.

Currently there are about 34 million items being traded on the website, but successful valentines gifts Thai eBay trader Rattanachai Thapanaphong says eBay still has much more to offer.

The 27-year-old trainer runs courses to help Thai sellers analyse and develop their eBay professional trading skills at his Benzio School.

Traders must first determine which product they want to sell through eBay. More detail is then needed to successfully tap or establish a niche market.

“For example, if you want to sell garments, you have to be specific whether it is sleepwear, baby clothes or traditional Thai costumes,” said Mr Rattanachai. “You can sell any type of garment but it must be unique.”

He recommends beginners do plenty of research on eBay and study their competition and the market.

“If there are fewer than 1,000 pieces offered on the site, there are certainly opportunities for selling in that category,” said Mr Rattanachai.

From the keyword “Thai”, Mr Rattanachai found total sales of US$290,561 (9.66 million bangles) through eBay last month, up from $251,550 in October and $159,989 in September.

A gemstone and jewellery trader from Chanthaburi set the Thailand record for eBay by selling products worth a combined $108,362 in one month.

Mr Rattanachai said there were great opportunities for selling Thai religious items online such as kuman thong (child-ghost), nang kwak (beckoning women), Buddha amulets and san phra phum (resident deity).

Gold and silver jewellery, gemstones, old CDs, branded old watches, collectible car models and old books are also popular with foreign buyers.

Mr Rattanachai said buyers from different countries shop for different products and sellers should study the behaviour of their target customers. Brand-name or pirated items were not recommended, he added.

Product information can only be posted in English on eBay. But Mr Rattanachai said this should not be too great a barrier for Thais.

Choosing the right product and presenting it attractively on the site are more important.

“If you sell a T-shirt with dragon pattern, you should show clearly the dragon in detail and tell the history of the dragon,” he said.

When calculating profits and costs, sellers should translate the cost into US dollars then add 15 percent more for the eBay sales fee.

Traders should not embark on a price-cutting strategy by setting the minimum bidding price too rings as it would destroy the overall market, he said.

“You should know the price of the same product including shipping cost on eBay, so you can set your overall price a bit lower,” he advises. “You can also set a higher price if your product is really outstanding or you have a better presentation to show the item.”

Thailand Post is the most convenient way to ship items as the rates are reasonable and it has a tracking system. But sellers may need to buy insurance coverage for expensive items, he said.

The Commerce Ministry apprehends the withdrawal of fiscal incentives to exporters by the Finance Ministry, in its larger bid to fix the budgetary hole, even as the exporters are vociferously voicing not only the extension of the existing relief measures till the end of 2010 but also additional measures to cushion them against high transaction cost.

“My fear is that North block (Finance Ministry) guys are having a hard look at fixing the budgetary hole and the tiffany targets are exporters,” the Commerce Secretary, Mr Rahul Khullar, told reporters here while releasing the foreign trade data for the first eight months of the current fiscal to prove the point that exports in November have turned positive.

Stating that the export performance would turn positive from January 2010, Mr Khullar said that “for the 2009-10 year as a whole, we are hoping that the export performance would be better than 2007-08, when exports fetched $163 billion, but will be below the 2008-09 level of $185 billion. How much this year’s exports will be below last year’s would depend on how well we do in the remaining months.” He said sectors which logged positive growth in November 2009 as compared to November 2008 include gems and jewellery at 40.4 per cent, petroleum products at 83.6 per cent, iron ore at 47.2 per cent, basic chemicals at 22.8 per cent and marine products at 27.3 per cent. He said engineering goods at 6.8 per cent, readymade garments of all textiles at 6 per cent and drugs, tiffany bangles and fine chemicals at 8.7 per cent showed modest growth.

Export performance He said exports declined in the first seven months of the current fiscal at -35.5 per cent, -30.2 per cent, – 31.9 per cent, -28.4 per cent, -19.5 per cent, -13.8 per cent and – 6.6 per cent. In November 2009 export turned positive at 18.2 per cent against the corresponding month of 2008.

Asked about fluctuations in the forex markets hitting exporters, the Commerce Secretary said that there has been no extreme volatility in the last few months and the movements in currency rates remain manageable by the exporters.

When contacted, the President of the Federation of Indian Export Organisation (FIEO), Mr A. Sakthivel, told Business Line that most of the manufacturing segments with high labour intensity export production remain affected by slow growth and that the existing incentives need to be continued till the end of 2010.

He further demanded additional allocations under Market Development Assistance and Market tiffany rings Initiatives to the exporters to undertake unexplored areas, to cushion the shrinkage of space in the traditional destinations.

Copyright 2009 Business Line

Ann Christine; Lizenzmanagement GmbH & Co. KG limited partnership with a limited tiffany jewelry liability company as general partner AUSTRIA, Wien, Austria, has been issued the trademark AC ANN CHRISTINE (Reg. No. 3734428; International Reg. No. 0948259) by the USPTO.

The trademark application (serial number 79064032) was filed on Dec. 12, 2008 and was registered on Jan. 5.

The description of the mark registered is “Color is not claimed as a feature of the mark”.

The goods & services for which registration was sought are “Beauty and body care cosmetics; perfumery, scented water of all kinds, in particular perfumes, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, antiperspirants; cosmetics; lipsticks; make-up. Spectacles and parts therefor, in particular sunglasses and ski goggles; sports googles for use tiffany necklaces in trekking, climbing, swimming, sailing, cycling, motorcycling and squash; spectacle frames; spectacle cases. Costume jewellery; horological and chronometric instruments and parts thereof; watch straps. sports bags, handbags, school satchels, rucksacks; purses, pocket wallets, key wallets. Clothing, namely, long trousers, jeans, pants, slacks, short trousers, boxer shorts, 3/4 length trousers, slacks with strap under foot, culottes, shirts, t-shirts, short-sleeved shirts, long-sleeved shirts, dresses, socks, blouses, sweaters; footwear, headgear, namely, hats, caps, head kerchiefs; men’s and women’s outer clothing, namely, waistcoats, jackets, denim jackets, coats, tunics, blazers, lounging jackets, bomber jackets, parkas, anoraks, overalls, dungarees; children’s clothing, namely, shirts, pants, under shirts, under pants, trousers, one-piece sleepers, dresses; layettes; men and women’s bathing clothing, namely, bathing suits, bathing trunks, bath robes, bathing caps. Retail and wholesale store services featuring preparations for beauty and body care, perfumery, eyeglasses and their parts, fineries, costume jewellery, watches, leather and imitations of leather and goods made from these materials, bags, handbags, small articles of leather, clothing, footwear and headgear; online retail and wholesale store services featuring preparations for beauty and body care, tiffany accessories , perfumery, eyeglasses and their parts, fineries, costume jewellery, watches, leather and imitations of leather and goods made from these materials, bags, handbags, small articles of leather, clothing, footwear and headgear”.

Bangles and pendants and beads, oh my. These are the key jewellery trends poised to dominate this season and inspire the storming of the retail barricades over the Christmas season.

Though Alisa Moussaieff of Moussaieff jewellers says it is still a little early to be completely accurate on what will win out come December, she confirms that “what people are asking for is diamond bead necklaces interspersed with gold and pearls. Also sapphire and ruby bead necklaces. I’ve found it’s beads, beads, beads at the moment.”

She also finds that the long necklace trend is continuing. Gold chains – of 70cm or 80cm in length – are popular for “a very casual look and (they) can be worn over a sweater or dress or as a bracelet wrapped around the wrist”.

Bangles also are popular at Moussaieff – “they are worn three or four at the same time” – and unusual mixes of material in this category, such as titanium bangles set around the edges with diamonds, coloured diamonds, rubies and sapphires, are attracting interest.

At Leviev, Simon Wilkinson confirms that “we have been bringing into the collection a lot of beads and beaded pieces, as well as some briolettes” a trend which, he says, “brings more lustre and fire to the pieces and brings some youth to it.”

In terms of Christmas trends, “I get the sense it’s going to be about rich colours with intense and vivid yellows, oranges, pinks and blues. Blue is such a hot colour at the moment; it is a colour that has some scarcity about it and as soon as there is a scarcity about something, it brings an additional level of interest from our clients.”

At Van Cleef and Arpels, Geoffroy Medinger, general manager UK, is also backing the necklace trend. He says: “This summer fashion from the 1920s and 1930s was popular, with pieces like long, long, necklaces in yellow gold. They are playful pieces and very long like the pearl necklaces from that era but it’s not pearls any more, as that’s a bit too classic. And this trend is continuing (this season) and it is continuing towards Christmas.”

“We have the Alhambra with long, long chains and for us the item of the summer was the Magic version – everyone went crazy for it and we didn’t have enough.”

For this season, however, the house’s well-known Alhambra range will come in three colours, white, grey mother of pearl, and onyx, on yellow gold for Christmas with a Lucky design of autumnal-themed shapes like “little hearts, little leaves and lots of little shapes and very colourful in the shades of autumn” so Cornelia red, malachite and tiger’s eye.

Mr Medinger expects these necklaces will be layered, with some longer and some shorter. “It is really not pretentious and is very playful,” he says. “It’s kind of a new way of wearing pieces that is less dressy and more casual.” For Christmas itself, Mr Medinger says that “the diamond is always strong: it is pure and the symbol of something that lasts” and that “rings are not so sought-after, as you have the size issue and you don’t want to get that wrong.”

Boodles also believes that pendant trend will continue, especially its new Velocity pendant, in yellow, rose or white gold, which resembles a round-ended bullet. “It’s already doing very well and we think it will be a bestseller,” says Michael Wainwright, joint managing director.

“Pendants are particularly strong at Christmas,” he adds, saying the house’s Roulette range is doing well, thanks to pendants and even though it does not have a ring.

“Generally, a range needs a good ring (to be really successful) but Roulette has been successful without one”.

Pierre Rainero, director of image and heritage at Cartier, says that what works well at the moment are its jewellery lines that “express a very feminine attitude, so we have a collection with pearls and diamonds we call Himalia Perles and it connects very well with the desire to wear a kind of jewellery that also conveys lightness because of light colours,” he says. “We also have long necklaces that you can use as chains and it’s really, really expressing that femininity.”

“The high jewellery collection Inde Mysterieuse, which we presented in London recently, is exactly the illustration of that new expression of femininity and all the pieces are articulated in an incredible number of places to favour layers of chains and also smooth and soft colours such as light brown diamonds with yellow and white diamonds, pendants and long earrings. It is a (way of wearing jewellery) that goes very well with the movement of women.”

Chanel Fine Jewellery is focusing on two collections based on comets (the Fil de Comete) and camellias. Both are “core (symbols) to the Chanel image” the company says. Camelia is the house flower and the comet design was the first fine jewellery that Mlle Chanel produced.

These designs focus on a feeling of lightness. “The new Camelia ring is open, almost (lace-like) and they are all handmade in Paris – but instead of one solid piece of gold it’s very open work, so a lot of workmanship goes into the lightness of it.

“The main thing about fine jewellery trends at the moment is that they are appealing to a younger profile (than traditionally).” So where once customers would have been more 50- plus, now they are more likely to buy in their late 20s or early 30s “which means that all companies have to cater for this younger market”.

Bulgari says that the approaching winter months bring out our seasonal instinct to layer – in both clothing and jewellery.

“Layering two or three pendants with slightly different lengths, charms and yellow and white golds creates a very contemporary bohemian style. Wide rings are also created from layering smaller rings on one finger. The charms on the new B.Zero.1 Mini collection layered with the cleaner lines of the Parentesi Openwork create a original and interesting combination,” the company says.

H Stern is no different. “Long pendants/necklaces that add a mod feel to the super short dresses in vogue now or cashmere turtlenecks,” is the leading trend, says Andrea Hansen, its international communications director. “The resurgence of necklaces is something that has been slowly happening during this past year and the holiday season will confirm the trend in a big, sparkling way.”

Melvyn Kirtley, president of Tiffany & Co in the UK confirms the key trends. “Customers are looking for pieces that can work from day to evening and also to mix metals and textures. Rings remain our strongest category, with pendants following and diamond stud earrings are also a very popular gift for the holidays,” he says.

As for the stones themselves, Mr Kirtley says “coloured gemstones are popular and will be during Christmas, but our trend for diamond jewellery set in platinum in classic Tiffany designs remains strong overall. The trend in gold jewellery is strong in all colours of gold with customers combining yellow, white and rose together in stacked bracelets and rings. Textured gold is very strong with Tiffany’s Woven collection fitting in beautifully with today’s fashions”.

Stephen Webster also says that “yellow gold has been outselling white gold outside the Russian market. Big chunky, unusual-cut gems in colours that tone well with the metal: for example, yellow gold tiger’s eye, golden mother of pearls, champagne/whiskey quartz, white gold with faceted hematite, lapis and black and white diamonds”.

Graff predicts that the trend will be very much white diamonds, with simple white diamond line bracelets, strand earrings with white marquise, pear shapes or heart shape diamonds all sought after. Simple pendants with pear shaped or marquise diamond drops are also tipped, as the brand says people seem to be choosing multi-shape diamond jewellery rather than the round brilliants.

New models present impeccable features of a high orderDamas, the undisputed retailer of stylish watches and jewellery in the Middle East, showcases trendy diamond watches reflecting perfection, exclusivity and technical superiority. Adorned with flawless diamonds they create a sparkling aura of eternity, yet remain true to their brand ethos at the Damas Les Exclusives Boutiques.

These diamond watches are a major draw for fashionistas in the region. Falling under the category of jewellery watches they are distinguished by superlative modernity, design, beauty, exclusivity and mechanical performance which give these exceptional pieces their distinctive boldness. Some of the diamond watch brands exhibited at Damas includes Jaquet Droz, Montega, Quinting, Parmigiani, Varotti and Sarcar.

They are not only considered prestigious but pronounce the personal success of a person. These timepieces command respect and admiration for their perfect craftsmanship. These high-end diamond watches offer state-of-the-art functionality and reflect the cutting edge craftsmanship of enthusiastic master horologists who love new challenges. They carry out strict quality controls at every stage of production and thus are known to offer something really different and being recognised as worthy exponents of the noblest Swiss watchmaking traditions.

Mohammed Tawheed Abdullah, Managing Director of Damas, said: “Creating diamond watches is an unparalleled skill, handed down from generation to generation. Most of these watches are produced in the workshops of Geneva and consist of brilliant-cut diamonds from 0.5 to 1 carat. The setting of these noblest of all stones is designed to let the light shine unobstructed through each of its facets. Thus this magnificent gem sparkles at each turn of the wrist.

“What’s special about these exceptional watches is that they increase in value with age. Delicately set by hand, these jewelled timepieces testify to an exquisite knowledge of Swiss watchmaking that dates back well over a century. These signature instruments are an epitome of class and style. They speak of their creators’ mastery over their art and unmatchable dexterity.”

He added as the Middle East market is experiencing a surge in the high-end diamond watch segment, more and more people are now willing to spend on these unique timepieces. Those who buy them understand that they are investing in an ageless classic which has a personality of its own. The fashion conscious in the region who wish to make a chic statement, acquire these limited editions which offer them joy for a lifetime.

A diamond watch lasts forever, a true luxury in which the owner never has to consider purchasing another watch ever again, but of course, if they have the exorbitant amount of money it takes to purchase one watch then they will most likely buy another one eventually. Subtle in their style, superior in precision, these luxurious watches are an enviable acquisition. Watchmakers nowadays integrate aspects of jewellery into watches making them outstanding decorative accessories while retaining their sturdiness through technological advancement combining aesthetically pleasing and pioneering designs.

What makes these brands truly unusual is that the manufacturers of these timepieces have preserved their expertise. On the strength of their unprecedented technical superiority and attention to detail, these timepieces have become one of the most sought after items in the luxury market segment. They transcend the realms of traditional watchmaking and are extremely lavish in their style statement.

Though adorned with diamonds their beauty lies in the impeccable technique and subtly daring designs. They continue to inspire the fashion savvy in the region and across the globe with their contemporary styles and irresistible looks making them one of the most prestigious ambassadors in the watchmaking arena.

These unique timepieces are available at Damas Les Exclusive Boutiques in Saks Fifth Avenue, Burjuman; Emirates Towers; Burj Al Arab; and Mall of the Emirates clad in gold, silver and exquisite diamonds which gives them superior brilliance and sparkle.

About Damas:The journey of Damas began in 1907, and today it has grown from a UAE based company into a global fashion and jewellery network spanning UK, Italy, Libya, Turkey, Egypt, Sudan, Jordan, Maldives, India, Lebanon, and throughout the GCC countries with about 400 sales points worldwide. Damas houses internationally acclaimed jewellery and watch brands such as Tiffany & Co., Mikimoto, Daniel K, Gucci, Faberge, Carrera y Carrera, Paspaley, Pasquale Bruni, Roberto Coin, Fope, Chronoswiss, Parmigiani, Perrelet, Quinting, Montega, Frederique Constant, among many others. The innovative in-house collections include the majestic Bridal jewellery, exclusive jewellery brands such as Damas Cut, Boudoor, Hayati, Riwaya, Jawaher, Farasha, Fairouz, Harmony, Farfasha, Al Manthura; watch brands Varotti and Aquamarin; and a wide range of other classic and contemporary jewellery and watch collections. Quality consciousness, inspirational leadership and international reputation have led Damas to win prestigious awards including the exclusive De Beers Award 2000, 2004 and 2007 for jewellery design.